If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this weekend)
correct,
If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this
weekend) correct, [long list of requirements]
Sounds like a lot of work.
Just this week I bought 6 of the closeout 200AH Xantrex AGMs for $110
each (no shipping, I can just pick them up in Arlington WA). Thank
goodness for sealed batteries!
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Coble
the top should be ventilated and the cables should come out the sides of
the top.
venting the battery box to the outside is a good idea (but I'm not sure
how this is effective if the sides of the top are ventilated and the cables
come out the sides of the top?)
If I've missed anything please let me know. My work starts Saturday.
Thanks
to all.
Mike Coble
REPLY
Nice summary!
One thing that got lost in the discussion is the orientation of cable
entry.
It is a general rule to have cables enter from the bottom or at most the
sides of any piece of electric equipment.
The reasoning being that if any water drips onto the cable and then follows
the cable it will not seep into the electrical equipment.
There is also an assumption that at some point a hose or pump will leak
causing water or other liquids to spray all over the engine room.
The traditional battery box achieves this intent by forcing the cable to
make a downward sweep as it exits under the lip of the lid.
Any liquid migrating along the cable would drip off the cable at the lowest
point in the bend.
This bend is appropriately enough called a "drip loop"
So any cable coming in from the side should have small downward bight or
curve before entering the box.
When the cables have to reach the top of the battery, it makes sense to have
the cables come in over the top of the sides.
Since most lids overlap and overhang the sides, this naturally creates the
required drip loop.
Your custom installation may vary; but now you know the good designs point
to aim for.
Good luck!
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