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Re: TWL: RE: Re; Bubble in battery boxes: CRAZY!

M
M2MC@aol.com
Thu, Jan 30, 2003 9:13 PM

If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this weekend)
correct,

  1. they should be lined with fiberglass to prevent acid leaks (also adding
    baking soda inside the box is a good idea).
  2. the top should protect the battery terminals.
  3. the top should be ventilated and the cables should come out the sides of
    the top.
  4. a radiant heat barrier should be between the box and any heat such as
    engines.
  5. the box should be a light color to help prevent soaking up the heat.
  6. allow adequate space between the batteries and above for air circulation.
  7. venting the battery box to the outside is a good idea (but I'm not sure
    how this is effective if the sides of the top are ventilated and the cables
    come out the sides of the top?)
  8. adding additional cooling for the batteries is a good idea if they will
    be in the engine compartment.  I assume a 12v fan aimed at the battery box
    vents in the sides of the top would suffice.
    If I've missed anything please let me know.  My work starts Saturday.  Thanks
    to all.
    Mike Coble
    TwoCan
If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this weekend) correct, 1. they should be lined with fiberglass to prevent acid leaks (also adding baking soda inside the box is a good idea). 2. the top should protect the battery terminals. 3. the top should be ventilated and the cables should come out the sides of the top. 4. a radiant heat barrier should be between the box and any heat such as engines. 5. the box should be a light color to help prevent soaking up the heat. 6. allow adequate space between the batteries and above for air circulation. 7. venting the battery box to the outside is a good idea (but I'm not sure how this is effective if the sides of the top are ventilated and the cables come out the sides of the top?) 8. adding additional cooling for the batteries is a good idea if they will be in the engine compartment. I assume a 12v fan aimed at the battery box vents in the sides of the top would suffice. If I've missed anything please let me know. My work starts Saturday. Thanks to all. Mike Coble TwoCan
KP
Keith Pleas
Thu, Jan 30, 2003 10:12 PM

If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this

weekend) correct, [long list of requirements]

Sounds like a lot of work.

Just this week I bought 6 of the closeout 200AH Xantrex AGMs for $110
each (no shipping, I can just pick them up in Arlington WA). Thank
goodness for sealed batteries!

Keith

>>>If I read all these post on battery boxes (which I'm building this weekend) correct, [long list of requirements] Sounds like a lot of work. Just this week I bought 6 of the closeout 200AH Xantrex AGMs for $110 each (no shipping, I can just pick them up in Arlington WA). Thank goodness for sealed batteries! Keith
AJ
Arild Jensen
Fri, Jan 31, 2003 12:09 AM

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Coble

  1. the top should be ventilated and the cables should come out the sides of
    the top.

  2. venting the battery box to the outside is a good idea (but I'm not sure
    how this is effective if the sides of the top are ventilated and the cables
    come out the sides of the top?)

If I've missed anything please let me know.  My work starts Saturday.
Thanks
to all.
Mike Coble

REPLY

Nice summary!
One thing that got lost in the  discussion is the orientation of cable
entry.

It is a general rule to have cables enter from the bottom or at most the
sides of any piece of electric equipment.
The reasoning being that  if any water drips onto the cable and then follows
the cable it will not seep into the electrical equipment.
There is also an  assumption that at some point a hose or pump will leak
causing water or other liquids to spray  all over the engine room.

The traditional battery box achieves this intent by forcing the cable to
make a downward sweep as it exits under the lip of the lid.
Any liquid migrating along the cable would drip off the cable at the lowest
point in the bend.

This bend is appropriately  enough called a "drip loop"

So any cable coming in from the side should have  small downward bight or
curve before entering the box.
When the cables have to reach the top of the battery, it makes sense to have
the cables  come in over the top of the sides.
Since most lids overlap and overhang the sides, this naturally  creates the
required  drip loop.

Your  custom  installation may vary; but now you know the good designs point
to aim for.

Good luck!

Arild

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-----Original Message----- From: Mike Coble 3. the top should be ventilated and the cables should come out the sides of the top. 7. venting the battery box to the outside is a good idea (but I'm not sure how this is effective if the sides of the top are ventilated and the cables come out the sides of the top?) If I've missed anything please let me know. My work starts Saturday. Thanks to all. Mike Coble REPLY Nice summary! One thing that got lost in the discussion is the orientation of cable entry. It is a general rule to have cables enter from the bottom or at most the sides of any piece of electric equipment. The reasoning being that if any water drips onto the cable and then follows the cable it will not seep into the electrical equipment. There is also an assumption that at some point a hose or pump will leak causing water or other liquids to spray all over the engine room. The traditional battery box achieves this intent by forcing the cable to make a downward sweep as it exits under the lip of the lid. Any liquid migrating along the cable would drip off the cable at the lowest point in the bend. This bend is appropriately enough called a "drip loop" So any cable coming in from the side should have small downward bight or curve before entering the box. When the cables have to reach the top of the battery, it makes sense to have the cables come in over the top of the sides. Since most lids overlap and overhang the sides, this naturally creates the required drip loop. Your custom installation may vary; but now you know the good designs point to aim for. Good luck! Arild --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.423 / Virus Database: 238 - Release Date: 11/25/2002