Well, I finally solved an issue that plagued me. I've been connected to
shore power here at Driscolls boat yard. On the AC panel I've measured as
high as 139v. I was really confused when my inverter would go to Invert,
rather than Transfer. Then I looked at the preset limits for High AC. Sure
enough 135 is the cutoff limit. I noticed if I ran the heater I use to move
air around in the boat during the winter it would draw the dock voltage down
to 133 or 134 and the Inverter would go into Transfer, charging the
batteries and passing the power through to the house. Not sure how my AC
systems like the 133volts, but they seem to be ok? I guess time will tell.
On a different note, we checked the prop shaft/engine alignment with a 3
thousandths feeler gauge and it was spot on. The manual suggested to check
it at 500 hours, so I've marked that off the list. Now a valve adjustment
and I'm officially out of here!
During this haul out we got the following done:
a. Bottom paint ($1,800)
b. Extra bottom paint on stern thruster ($330)
c. Prop Speed on Main and Wing ($670)
d. Zincs (labor only $450 because we had to pull the fin end caps)
e. Cutlass bearing check ($60)
f. Gelcoat repairs (from the damn sailboat FLASH at Lockhaven in
Seattle, $800)
g. Re-bed leaking transducer (improperly installed either at factory
or during commissioning $540)
h. Fab starboard for tender wheel mounts ($300)
We still have to adjust the main engine valves and put the port stabilizer
back together (replaced leaking seal). With any luck I'll be out of here
for about $7,000. Not too bad for a major 2 year fitness check. Thanks to
everyone that has provided help and advice preparing me for this activity.
Having so many people out there with experience is very helpful.
Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA
Well, I finally solved an issue that plagued me. I've been connected to
shore power here at Driscolls boat yard. On the AC panel I've measured as
high as 139v. I was really confused when my inverter would go to Invert,
rather than Transfer. Then I looked at the preset limits for High AC. Sure
enough 135 is the cutoff limit. I noticed if I ran the heater I use to move
air around in the boat during the winter it would draw the dock voltage down
to 133 or 134 and the Inverter would go into Transfer, charging the
batteries and passing the power through to the house. Not sure how my AC
systems like the 133volts, but they seem to be ok? I guess time will tell.
On a different note, we checked the prop shaft/engine alignment with a 3
thousandths feeler gauge and it was spot on. The manual suggested to check
it at 500 hours, so I've marked that off the list. Now a valve adjustment
and I'm officially out of here!
During this haul out we got the following done:
a. Bottom paint ($1,800)
b. Extra bottom paint on stern thruster ($330)
c. Prop Speed on Main and Wing ($670)
d. Zincs (labor only $450 because we had to pull the fin end caps)
e. Cutlass bearing check ($60)
f. Gelcoat repairs (from the damn sailboat FLASH at Lockhaven in
Seattle, $800)
g. Re-bed leaking transducer (improperly installed either at factory
or during commissioning $540)
h. Fab starboard for tender wheel mounts ($300)
We still have to adjust the main engine valves and put the port stabilizer
back together (replaced leaking seal). With any luck I'll be out of here
for about $7,000. Not too bad for a major 2 year fitness check. Thanks to
everyone that has provided help and advice preparing me for this activity.
Having so many people out there with experience is very helpful.
Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA
