Gloss is required to provide a longer lasting protective coating for the
original 2-3 coats. Without it, Cetol won't last nearly as long and will
be more difficult to touch up.

Since it came on the market last year or so, I've used the Cetol
Natural, but prior to that used the Cetol Light - I really cannot tell
any difference in the final hue. I'm currently refinishing (sanded to
bare wood and then applied Cetol) all my saloon window frames and
sliding doors with two coats of natural followed by three coats of
gloss; the PO had apparently used the original Cetol and it is a
substantially darker hue than either the light or natural and it really
shows darker. Last spring I refinished all the topside teak and the
combing around the eyebrow level.

Once it's finished properly (with at least several gloss coats) Cetol is
relatively easy to keep up following their directions. Here in Florida I
try to give everything a new coat of gloss every six months and am
always on the lookout for dings that might allow moisture to penetrate
into the underlying wood.

Make sure you use a good quality brush (not foam) in order to get the
proper thickness for each layer, particularly of the gloss. People using
foam brushes tend to not apply a heavy enough coat to be effective and
therefore need even more coats to get the thickness necessary for good
protection.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young              Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling                            Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler                      Melbourne, Florida
Blog: http://sanderlingcruise2010.blogspot.com/
Pics: http://tinyurl.com/yjx2vky&  http://tinyurl.com/yhxjvas

On 11/18/2010 7:25 PM, L. Shay Glass wrote:

While we are on this topic, can anyone share their experiences or knowledge
with Cetol vs Bristol?

Don Mellinger
Heavenly Daze
Defever 53 POC

-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+don=sssteam.us@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+don=sssteam.us@lists.samurai.com] On
Behalf Of Bob McLeran
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:54 PM
To: T-T&T List
Subject: Re: T&T: Sikkens Cetol

Gloss is required to provide a longer lasting protective coating for the
original 2-3 coats. Without it, Cetol won't last nearly as long and will
be more difficult to touch up.

Since it came on the market last year or so, I've used the Cetol
Natural, but prior to that used the Cetol Light - I really cannot tell
any difference in the final hue. I'm currently refinishing (sanded to
bare wood and then applied Cetol) all my saloon window frames and
sliding doors with two coats of natural followed by three coats of
gloss; the PO had apparently used the original Cetol and it is a
substantially darker hue than either the light or natural and it really
shows darker. Last spring I refinished all the topside teak and the
combing around the eyebrow level.

Once it's finished properly (with at least several gloss coats) Cetol is
relatively easy to keep up following their directions. Here in Florida I
try to give everything a new coat of gloss every six months and am
always on the lookout for dings that might allow moisture to penetrate
into the underlying wood.

Make sure you use a good quality brush (not foam) in order to get the
proper thickness for each layer, particularly of the gloss. People using
foam brushes tend to not apply a heavy enough coat to be effective and
therefore need even more coats to get the thickness necessary for good
protection.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young              Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling                            Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler                      Melbourne, Florida
Blog: http://sanderlingcruise2010.blogspot.com/
Pics: http://tinyurl.com/yjx2vky&  http://tinyurl.com/yhxjvas

On 11/18/2010 7:25 PM, L. Shay Glass wrote:

side

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Don, I tried Bristol and had a very bad experience, started to fail all
over after about 8 months.  I'm not sure what the problem was.  Poor
prep, I really don't know.  But Cetol has a much more forgiving touchup
procedure and maintenance that I'm going to give it a shot.  I'm in the
middle of taking everything back down to wood and applying two coats of
Cetol natural, followed by three coats of clear gloss.

Cetol is also championed by Buster Phipps, one of the respected
shipwright here in my marina, Herrington Harbor North.  He replaced the
sliding mechanism for my salon doors from wood on starboard to brass
rollers on a brass strip.  They move so easily now, it the best money
I've ever spent.  :-)

John Blackburn
44 DeFever "Yak Rack"
Deale, MD

Don Mellinger wrote:

Our "expert"  finisher in the area uses Cetol and then final coats with the
Natural color blended 50/50 with the Gloss.  We keep a container of the
blend to use as a touch-up.

I like the Natural much better than the original color which gets muddy
after many coats.
Greg and Susan Han
Key Biscayne, FL
Allegria -- Krogen Whaleback #16
Our current location:  http://tinyurl.com/24rwsq2
MTOA # 3702

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 7:25 PM, L. Shay Glass shayglass@gmail.com wrote:

Do not use Bristol on a boat unless the boat is kept inside; my advice after
investing heavily in Bristol.
Bristol sets up rigid and brittle after only six months or so. Any joint or
crack or possible source of slight movement
will cause it to crack. Water under the Bristol will cause it to delaminate.
On old teak (dry, relatively low oil, sealed) it will lift in sheets about
four inches wide and a foot long. Bristol has an inconsistent adhesion to
teak, but its adhesion to itself is very high.
In spite of my experience with it, others at my dock have used it. Most with
poor results.
It is unforgiving in terms of removal, as it is so hard. Where it decides to
stick, it sticks hard, resisting sand paper and scraper. So you have an
unsightly problem of 50/50 patches where it fell off on its own, and where
it refused to come off.
The risk is so high for the admittedly very fine final finish (for a year)
that I would use (and did switch to) the Cetol solution described in other
posts.
Previously I had carefully cultivated a varnish finish which worked well for
more than twenty years as long as I religiously recoated every year. I
missed a year and it turned to crap. Then went to Bristol, seven coats, and
it turned to crap.
Cetol is doing predictably well and is easy to manage, although the final
finish is never as good as either the varnish or the Bristol.

If you can afford to have someone else do the work, go for the varnish or
Bristol. Otherwise go for the easy, and don't have wood on your boat.
Richard

I just read Marin's post on the subject of Bristol. Let me add that my
Bristol job was done by experienced professionals who had worked with and
recommended Bristol. The boat was in controlled ideal environmental
conditions. The surface was exactingly prepared, including three coats of
CPES. The Bristol was laid down exactly to the instructions, including the
cure times in between based on the greater of the inspected condition and
the specified time between coats. Because the directions were followed, we
did not have the difficulty Marin speaks of, although I have seen this on
other owner's projects.
Richard