[Fwd: Deck core replacement]
Well . . . , by the time everything gets epoxied together, it's pretty
much one monocoque (is that the right word?) mass! The Gougeon book and
the pamphlet suggests that if ever a plank needs to be replaced, it can
be removed with a router! I think that would be easy enough to do and
worth the effort considering the advantages.
After writing my last email on this subject, I did a little more
thinking about the bungs. I think you could use real bungs, but I'd
drill the holes after the teak was laid down, or drill some evenly
spaced pilot holes before applying the teak, use those holes for the
temporary screws to hold the strips in place while the epoxy cures, fill
the holes most of the way with epoxy to seal, then redrill from the top
and add the bungs.
No matter how you replace the buns with this system, the entire deck
gets sanded to remove any epoxy "slop" and to level out the surface of
the strips. BTW, the strips only need be about 1/8-3/16" thick when
finished - they're just a "veneer" in essence. Mine will end up closer
to 1/4-5/16" because of the thickness I'm starting with.
Randall Jacobs wrote:
Bob,
Sounds like a good system. I assume that if you wanted to
replace the bungs with teak you could do it by installing
them prior to re-laying the teak strips. Question is, could
you ever get it up if you had to??
--
Bob McLeran rmcleran@ix.netcom.com
M/V "Sanderling" Docked at Point Patience Marina
Hailing port: Wianno MA Solomons, MD
Hampton 35 Trawler
Bob,
Sounds like a good system. I assume that if you wanted to
replace the bungs with teak you could do it by installing
them prior to re-laying the teak strips. Question is, could
you ever get it up if you had to??
Robert H. McLeran wrote:
I am going to use a technique that I have tried, and that is to imbed
the teak in thickened epoxy - it works and is absolutely water proof.
Randall Jacobs, ja447@ix.netcom.com
48' DeFever, ADIOS!
Charleston SC (at last)
Well . . . , by the time everything gets epoxied together,
it's pretty
much one monocoque (is that the right word?) mass! The
Gougeon book and
the pamphlet suggests that if ever a plank needs to be
replaced, it can
be removed with a router! I think that would be easy enough
to do and
worth the effort considering the advantages.
Bob,
Maybe I missed something. Seems to me you could replace the
bungs while you've got the planks out on the floor. The
screws that will temporarily hold the planks down to the
deck while the epoxy sets will be at the seams and those
holes will get filled by the seam epoxy. I wonder what will
happen when you try to sand the decks when it has epoxy
seams. The epoxy will be much harder than the teak and it
seems like you'd wind up with the seams higher than the
surrounding teak decking. Let me know how it all turns out.
Randy Jacobs, ja447@ix.netcom.com
48' DeFever, ADIOS!
Charleston SC (At last)
The difference in density of the two materials (wood and epoxy) didn't
cause any such problem when I finished my lazarette cover - I actually
thought it might. Wear might eventually be a factor, but with the seams
every 1.25 inches or so, the harder epoxy might actually keep the deck
from wearing as much as it might normally. Obviously, you need to be
careful when sanding and use the largest diameter disk you can get -
Gougeon's suggest using a large floor sander!
Re placing the bungs, you could do it the way you suggest if you use
screws at the seams to hold the strips in place. If you use screws in
the old (or soon to be) bung holes, then you'd have to drill them out
after the epoxy had set up and after back filling with epoxy.
Randall Jacobs wrote:
Maybe I missed something. Seems to me you could replace the
bungs while you've got the planks out on the floor. The
screws that will temporarily hold the planks down to the
deck while the epoxy sets will be at the seams and those
holes will get filled by the seam epoxy. I wonder what will
happen when you try to sand the decks when it has epoxy
seams. The epoxy will be much harder than the teak and it
seems like you'd wind up with the seams higher than the
surrounding teak decking. Let me know how it all turns out.
--
Bob McLeran rmcleran@ix.netcom.com
M/V "Sanderling" Docked at Point Patience Marina
Hailing port: Wianno MA Solomons, MD
Hampton 35 Trawler