s ironing out the software configuration side of things. I'm not interested at all in PTP yet, right now the focus is purely on feeding the PPS into chrony via the SDP pins. The GNSS I'm using is a Sparkfun uBlox NEO-M9N GNSS receiver in its default configuration, connected to the computer over USB. PPS pin connected to the i210's SDP0. PPS pulse is 3v3 for 100ms. > > I have tried using refclock strings from chrony's examples page[2] as a jumping-off point, but it doesn't make much sense to me. > 16Hz PPS with a rate of 16 - why not use 1Hz with a default rate of 1? More samples can hide at least some of the noise. As Bob points out in his reply there's a limit, though, of course, the NEO-M9N datasheet says its time-pulse accuracy is 30ns RMS/60ns 99%. If your interrupt jitter is less than that, you're not gonna hide much :). > The Dan Drown blog post makes a little bit more sense, but I think something is missing from the 'relevant chrony.conf' example - notably, it includes a single refclock line with the "pps" option, which according to the chrony.conf docs[4]: "Another time source is needed to complete samples from the refclock." and that example isn't included. A PPS input is just a pulse. chrony has no idea what time that pulse was meant to indicate, only that it indicated a specific time. You have to somehow hook that pulse up to something else via the "lock" option. Probably you want to run gpsd and tell chrony about the gpsd input via a "refclock SHM...noselect" line. There should be examples of how to do this elsewhere > Furthermore, his "width" parameter is set to 0.7 milliseconds, which seems tremendously short to me. If the PPS pulses are 100ms (which I understand to be fairly standard) why wouldn't the width be configured as such? I may be misunderstanding this parameter. Yea, not sure, that does seem super small. If chrony knows the time (via the lock'ed refclock) with more accuracy than 0.7/2ms then its fine, but if you're locking to an NMEA input via gpsd you're gonna have way more variance than that. Ideally your pulse is half the width of your pulse rate, so 500ms if you're doing 1s PPS. > Either way, am not able to get chrony to lock up to a PHC refclock.[5] This is what my chrony.conf looks like: https://paste.millerjs.org/ajoxigiquc.txt > > I have not been able to use the testptp tool on this system yet - building it on another machine and running the copied-over executable fails, citing too old a version of glibc, and when I try and build it locally it fails for reasons that are unknown to me (I am very much not a C developer). I may have to install a newer OS in order to try this out. > > I am going to continue to fiddle with this - I think getting testptp working such that I can verify that I'm actually getting a pulse on SDP0 is the most important thing to confirm right now. I would greatly appreciate any help or feedback! chrony has been a bit...fidgety with me, the testptp utility will show at least whether your input is pulsing and being read or not. Matt

hing else is OK. Your point about decoding the CHDR packets is well taken. Thanks, Neal

ontrol > is not going to work with multicast, but I’m hoping everything else is OK. > I think it would depend on how "knowledgeable" the (very very thin) IP/UDP stack is on the X310--it's all done in the FPGA, so   it's not likely to care much what IP address you give it. Although, thinking about it, it may not be "smart" enough to   send the multi-cast packets as ethernet multicasts.  Like I said, the IP stack on these devices is very very "thin". If it were my problem, I'd designate a host to receive all the traffic in the usual fashion, and multi-cast it outwards to   the other participants. > Your point about decoding the CHDR packets is well taken. > > Thanks, > > Neal > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list -- usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > To unsubscribe send an email to usrp-users-leave@lists.ettus.com

dy, both suggesting alternative academic milestones that could be used as indicators. Deborah Deborah Kennedy Executive Director http://www.nationalcoalitionforliteracy.org https://calendly.com/deborah-kennedy-key-words/30min | https://calendly.com/deborah-kennedy-key-words/60-minute-zoom-call

crews with a variety of heads and diameters mostly M5 > and smaller.  But as sizes increase my parts on hand are increasingly > limited due to the cost of acquiring stock and the cost in space and > time of keeping stock stored, sorted and readily accessible.  In my > smaller sizes I also have gaps in my collection where I used all of > the items of a particular type and size in an assortment and have yet > to bother replacing them.  Printing may be more fuss than searching > for and using a part I might have on hand but it can be easier than > using parts which aren't exactly what one wants and faster than > shopping to get the right part.  I also like being able to make custom > parts such as the thumbwheel bolts and nuts seen here on the 3d > printed adjustable monitor arm, the printed  adjustable desk height > riser,  the very short fat bolt used to secure the counter weights on > the base and the one hidden from view securing the underside of the C > clamp at the base of the monitor arm: > bed_desk_1024.jpg > > On Sat, Aug 10, 2024 at 9:50 AM Marcus Poller > wrote: > > Todd Allen via Discuss wrote: > > It is easiest to print bolts vertically standing on their heads > but tensile > > strength is then maximally impacted by layer adhesion. > > > After printing many bolts I have come to the conclusion that I > safe more time buying them than printing them. > Those are standard components, you can have them in any > head-shape, thread-size, and color. > If I print a bolt > >  * I have to use a thread cutting tool to free the print object of > slicer artifacts and oozing >  * I am at risk that the bolt layers will separate in operation > (it breaks or peals apart) >  * it takes a lot more time than reaching for my toolbox of bolts > > I have personally settled to own a collection of many differnt > lengths of M3-bolts [1], soldering in thread [2], default and > safety (plastic ring inlay) nuts [3] and screw glue [4]. > > It is way easier than printing 10 bolts and then figuring out > while 3 of them cannot be fastened with a nut. > > My OpenSCAD-preview contains bolts. I need to be sure bolts do not > overlap and I can access their head with a tool for fasting. But I > have come to the personal conclusion that I should stop printing > bolts. > > Just my two cents, > Marcus > > [1] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/linsenkopfschraube-m-kreuzschlitz-din-7985-m3x12-mm-edelstahl-a2-100-stueck/6836149/ > I even own m3x45 for 3d printed toys with long axles > [2] > https://www.amazon.de/ruthex-Gewindeeinsatz-St%C3%BCck-Gewindebuchsen-Kunststoffteile/dp/B08BCRZZS3?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 > > [3] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/sechskant-sicherungsmutter-selbstsichernd-reyher-din-985-m3-galv-verzinkt-100-stueck/10316758/ > [4] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/loctite-schraubensicherung-243-mittelfest-normal-5-ml/7663487/ > Anything that has to sustain vibrations, like childrens toys, > needs to be either secured or glued. > > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email todiscuss-leave@lists.openscad.org -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com

ited due to the cost of acquiring stock and the cost in space and time of keeping stock stored, sorted and readily accessible. In my smaller sizes I also have gaps in my collection where I used all of the items of a particular type and size in an assortment and have yet to bother replacing them. Printing may be more fuss than searching for and using a part I might have on hand but it can be easier than using parts which aren't exactly what one wants and faster than shopping to get the right part. I also like being able to make custom parts such as the thumbwheel bolts and nuts seen here on the 3d printed adjustable monitor arm, the printed adjustable desk height riser, the very short fat bolt used to secure the counter weights on the base and the one hidden from view securing the underside of the C clamp at the base of the monitor arm: [image: bed_desk_1024.jpg] On Sat, Aug 10, 2024 at 9:50 AM Marcus Poller wrote: > Todd Allen via Discuss wrote: > > It is easiest to print bolts vertically standing on their heads but > tensile > > strength is then maximally impacted by layer adhesion. > > > After printing many bolts I have come to the conclusion that I safe more > time buying them than printing them. > Those are standard components, you can have them in any head-shape, > thread-size, and color. > If I print a bolt > > * I have to use a thread cutting tool to free the print object of slicer > artifacts and oozing > * I am at risk that the bolt layers will separate in operation (it breaks > or peals apart) > * it takes a lot more time than reaching for my toolbox of bolts > > I have personally settled to own a collection of many differnt lengths of > M3-bolts [1], soldering in thread [2], default and safety (plastic ring > inlay) nuts [3] and screw glue [4]. > > It is way easier than printing 10 bolts and then figuring out while 3 of > them cannot be fastened with a nut. > > My OpenSCAD-preview contains bolts. I need to be sure bolts do not overlap > and I can access their head with a tool for fasting. But I have come to the > personal conclusion that I should stop printing bolts. > > Just my two cents, > Marcus > > [1] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/linsenkopfschraube-m-kreuzschlitz-din-7985-m3x12-mm-edelstahl-a2-100-stueck/6836149/ > I even own m3x45 for 3d printed toys with long axles > [2] > https://www.amazon.de/ruthex-Gewindeeinsatz-St%C3%BCck-Gewindebuchsen-Kunststoffteile/dp/B08BCRZZS3?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 > [3] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/sechskant-sicherungsmutter-selbstsichernd-reyher-din-985-m3-galv-verzinkt-100-stueck/10316758/ > [4] > https://www.hornbach.de/p/loctite-schraubensicherung-243-mittelfest-normal-5-ml/7663487/ > Anything that has to sustain vibrations, like childrens toys, needs to be > either secured or glued. >

d color. If I print a bolt * I have to use a thread cutting tool to free the print object of slicer artifacts and oozing * I am at risk that the bolt layers will separate in operation (it breaks or peals apart) * it takes a lot more time than reaching for my toolbox of bolts I have personally settled to own a collection of many differnt lengths of M3-bolts [1], soldering in thread [2], default and safety (plastic ring inlay) nuts [3] and screw glue [4]. It is way easier than printing 10 bolts and then figuring out while 3 of them cannot be fastened with a nut. My OpenSCAD-preview contains bolts. I need to be sure bolts do not overlap and I can access their head with a tool for fasting. But I have come to the personal conclusion that I should stop printing bolts. Just my two cents, Marcus [1] https://www.hornbach.de/p/linsenkopfschraube-m-kreuzschlitz-din-7985-m3x12-mm-edelstahl-a2-100-stueck/6836149/ I even own m3x45 for 3d printed toys with long axles [2] https://www.amazon.de/ruthex-Gewindeeinsatz-St%C3%BCck-Gewindebuchsen-Kunststoffteile/dp/B08BCRZZS3?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 [3] https://www.hornbach.de/p/sechskant-sicherungsmutter-selbstsichernd-reyher-din-985-m3-galv-verzinkt-100-stueck/10316758/ [4] https://www.hornbach.de/p/loctite-schraubensicherung-243-mittelfest-normal-5-ml/7663487/ Anything that has to sustain vibrations, like childrens toys, needs to be either secured or glued.

Most young Bluebirds die within their first year. 50% survival is above average. One in ten young reach adulthood. Up to 50 % adults die each year. Average age of a Bluebird in wild is only 2 years. Best placement of BB box. Morning sun good, afternoon, some shade good. Best positioning. Hole facing south best - Also south east or south west OK.

For the most part, you will die if you only receive CPR in a boating or cruising situation for cardiac arrest. In addition to many studies like this, there are multiple books written on this exact subject. I'd refer anyone to "Sudden Death and the Myth of CPR" which I have read (http://tinyurl.com/6w3lc).