"Jim Healy" writes: >Yes, you could probably >use a Square "D" panel as a sub-panel on a boat, but for the main >disconnects on a boat, you need breakers that break both the hot and neutral >lines. Likewise with the feedpoint breakers on gensets and inverters. >Residential breakers don't do that. This is a good point. My main selector switches all break the neutral. The on ly exception to this is the 30 amp breaker on the main shore power cord. That has a very direct run (24 inches) to the isolation transformer. While double- pole breakers are readily available (I use one as the genset disconnect), I c ould not see any justification for breaking both legs. By the way, I only used the Square D panels for AC. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

"Jim Healy" writes: >The NEC states that the neutral and ground in an AC distribution system >should be connected together at the "source" for end use attachments; never >at sub-panels or other points in the system. For shore power, the "source" >is defined to be a specific point on-shore in the marina's electrical >infrastructure. Not quite. If you run an isolation transformer, the "source" is defined as th e secondary of the transformer. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

Dennis writes: >"ALL of these devices require that both the >neutral and the hot legs be broken >by attaching switchgear." >So, very time I start my gen set I have to switch >the neutral ON ?? >News to me, but one learns every day, I had better get my >electrican in here tomorrow. Yes, that is technically correct. When the genset is OFF, both the neutral an d the "bond" (the connection of the neutral to ground) should be disconnected . Now, as a bit of an aside, I use a Xantrex 4024MC inverter/charger to do some of my switching. The 4024MC (despite the fact that it has been approved by th e ABYC) DOES NOT correctly switch the ground. It only switches the hot and ne utral legs. This is wrong, but it's the way it is. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

"KevinR" writes: >No, you just throw the shore power/ generator transfer switch. That breaks >all three legs (hot, neutral & safety ground) from the shore power >receptacle, and connects all three to the generator. Switching back to shore >power does the reverse. As I mentioned in the previous post, you may find that some product which cla im to do this (e.g. the Trace 4024MC) do not in fact switch the ground, even though they have supposedly been approved for this use. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

"Jim Healy" writes: >I'm not where I can get at my standards, so I can't check this out right >now. I do not believe it's a correct interpretation, since transformers can >and do short internally, and they are located in the end attachment part of >the distribution system, where by definition, there can't be two sources. Remember, an isolation transformer is a "load" to shore power (the primary wi nding) and a "source" to the boat (the secondary winding). Hence the AC neutr al should be bonded to the AC ground on the secondary side of the isolation t ransformer. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

Peter Bennett writes: >The shore-side AC neutral is only connected to one side of the >transformer primary, and _not_ to vessel ground. >The on-board neutral and on-board ground are connected to one >secondary terminal of the transformer and to vessel ground. Not only is this correct, it is in fact the major point of an "isolation" tra nsformer: it removes the DC connection between the DC vessel ground on your b oat and the DC vessel grounds on all of the other boats around you. Without a n isolation transformer there is a DC connection between your ground and the ground of every other vessel on the same AC system as you. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

Lorenzo Boelitz writes: >I'm rebuilding a 63' steel shrimp boat to make it a liveaboard passagemaker a >nd I'm wondering if I need an autopilot and what your recommendations would b >e. I'm installing the Raymarine E120 system, the boat is powered by a DD8/71 >with hydraulic steering off the camshaft and controlled by a toggle. As have other posters, I would highly recommend an autopilot. Island Eagle is similar in size to your boat (60 feet, 50 tons) and I find that for all but t he closest of maneuvering that it is much easier and safer to handle the rudd er with the autopilot. After I have cleared the dock I usually engage the aut opilot in power steering mode, and as soon as I am clear of the harbor I enga ge full auto. Far from being unsafe, I find that this allows me to focus on s ituational awareness instead of constantly keeping the boat on track. The one thing that I dislike about my current setup is that since the autopil ot is usually on, I spend a lot of time turning it off. Sometimes this is jus t to dodge a deadhead, other times it's to clear a wake or make a temporary c ourse change. Right now I have to get out of the helm seat, which is set back about 2 feet from the wheel. I'm in the process of adding a remote, which I w ill mount directly on the seat arm. This will allow me to enable/disable/dodg e/steer directly from the seat. Finally, you mention that you are using an engine-driven hydraulic pump. This is a fine plan, but I would highly recommend that you plan for some type of b ackup system (a secondary engine driven pump and/or an electrically driven pu mp). Last but not least, what brand of AP. I use a ComNav 1001 (http://www.comnavm arine.com/). I have no connection at all with them, but I have had generally good experience. It's what most of the fishing boats up here use. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

<2elnav@netbistro.com> writes: >Electrical codes have developed because so many people demonstrate a lack of >common sense. But I suppose in the land of the free everyone should be >allowed to place themsleves at risk. Just don't involve somebody else. Yes, it's a good thing that there have never been any fires at docks caused by overloaded electrical connections. Such a fire might endanger not only your own boat but every other boat on the dock. But I guess that's pretty unlikely. After all, these electrical codes are just stupid rules dreamed up by pencil-necked bureaucrats with nothing better to do. Scott

Ross Lappin writes: >Faced with the task or replaceing all gauges for both engines at both helm >stations - to assure correct function I will do all sending units as well. > >Will the list please make recommendations at manufacturer? I would recommend VDO, they are well made and look good too IMHO. I bought all mine at eGuages (www.egauges.com/), and have been very satisfied. You may also want to consider some mechanical Murphy Switch gauges in the engine room or at the lower helm (www.fwmurphy.com). Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Randy Sysol writes: >My Californian LRC has stainless bow railings screwed into a wood >caprail. These have pulled out over time and need to be refastened. > >What >would be the best approach to this? I've thought of refilling the current >openings with a wood filler and then rescrewing and sealing the area. Any >better thoughts? Two simple solutions: 1) Drill 3 new holes, and use those (leave the old screws in). 2) Install 3/4" teak pads, glued and screwed. Then fasten the rails to those. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden