put a 60' twin in a 65 ft slip without spring lines or other more normal manoovers. It is especially effective with large catamarans. You can't turn a 60' cat in less than 85 ft or so as the diagonal length will get you every time. So walking them in or out of slips is the norm. You can't do this if the props don't have a rudder behind them. What you are referring really won't keep the bow undercontrol if there's any breeze or current. In any case with twins I'd sure want a rudder directly behind each of them ;-) As always YMMV... Dave & Nancy Swan Song Roughwater 58

800K and wanted to buy the least amount of boat that would do the job. C. Capability: I wanted a boat that was ocean capable enabling me to circumnavigate......., D. Size: I wanted two staterooms...... I wanted less than 50 feet because of how few slips above 45 there were in the Puget Sound. E. Fit and Finish: My wife needed to feel "at home" in the boat, this left the Diesel Duck out because at the time they were still a bit rough. F. I wanted a fiberglass boat, single screw, diesel, wet or dry exhaust, Pilot house, a fly bridge would be nice, but not necessary, active stabilizers with Paravanes as backup (if ocean crossing). I have admittedly chopped off Scott's comments, abreviated them. I hope this doesn't misconstrue Scott's message of his own requirements and needs. The original question of "key factors driving our decisions and how we ended up choosing the boats we did" is a good point for discussion. Some of mine: As a sailor, last boat a catamaran ketch which averaged about 10 knots around the clock offshore, sailing, motorsailing, or motoring, I decided to try a powerboat this time. My first criteria is performance, a broad one. Performance under power should include both speed and economy. An economical passagemaking speed as well as capability to make some miles when needed also economically, ie, 150 to 200 miles in a daylight passage when conditions suit. Also the capability to surf, take advantage of prevalent conditions in safety and comfort. Performance also includes an inherently stable platform without ballast or active stabilization underway, or active or passive stabilization on the hook. Stability will be subject to a variety of factors when underway. Stability at anchor is a regular feature of catamarans. Performance to me should not be less on a powerboat than what I was accustomed to on a sailboat. Creature comforts, vast on a catamaran. Space to cook, many places to sleep, space to get up and take a walk. Storage space, separation space (for people)... Dinghys. Room to have a couple aboard. This is an important aspect of cruising for me, local exploration via small boat. Small motorboat, small sailboat, kayak, rowing shell...the ability to bring along some small boats. Also an easy lift/launch regime, and a fast one. Plus easy boarding and offloading/onloading from the small boats, for people and stores. Anchoring. Robust anchors with strong and widely spread bridling makes a boat stable at anchor. Cats are easily bridled to keep head into the wx. Also steady and flat on the hook even in a "rolly' anchorage. And easy to get underway again if the need arises without dealing with a bunch-o-stuff hanging off the sides, like paravanes. A good bridling system also works well riding at sea anchor, another important function on a voyaging boat, the ability to hove to, safely. Comfort. In general, boat-length = comfort (and speed). Length in a multihull is a price essentially unpaid for if accomodation is kept under control. In other words, extra length, ie, empty ends, are easy and cheap to build, carry no weight penalty, but improve lifestyle by providing an easier motion and additional speed. The notion of "the shortest boat to do the job" is a flawed concept both performance/wise and comfort/wise. Slip fees are not an ongoing concern to me, I anchor out. So another two cents from another donor. Best regards, Bill Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

of you make what you learn work, kind of like cutting the ends off the ham ;'). Anyway, my point was, for a coastal cruiser that N46 with twins can be a very compelling value (because they aren't highly sought after the price reflects it's unique configuration). Just an opinion, people asking for a refund should line up! Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA

is performance, a broad one. continued..... _________________________________________________ Brian replied: You might take some grief for that observation on this list

e each tank will be about three feet high, the pumps will be mounted near the bottoms of the tanks. That way, the pumps will have a nice gravity feed, until the tanks are almost empty. These transfer pumps will push the fuel up a head of about six feet to fill a bulk tank that feeds the day tank. Even the day tank, however, is still lower than the engines. Everything is pumped up hill, yet all transfer pumps will be gravity fed. Paul Kruse

ccommodations and fuel efficiencies more common to long-range diesel cruisers. More than 1,300 Mainship 34s (and Nantucket 34s and Mainship II Motor Cruisers) are testimony to the wisdom and foresight of the Luhrs brothers. --Georgs

emi-displacement hull that embodied the spacious accommodations and fuel >efficiencies more common to long-range diesel cruisers. More than 1,300 >Mainship 34s (and Nantucket 34s and Mainship II Motor Cruisers) are >testimony to the wisdom and foresight of the Luhrs brothers. I think I can certainly agree that the 34' Mainship is a great intro to the Trawler World. And I haven't a clue (yet) what we can do a for a worthy replacement, now that our Mainship III (Silverheels) is sold... -Chris (now truly boatless near Ft. Lauderdale)

e on stability in some cases. Increasing the roll moment makes the roll period longer, and thus the boat less "tender". If a boat has an excessively fast roll period it will quickly respond to, for example, a beam sea. A longer roll period can allow beam seas to pass under the boat before a roll can have a chance to develop. The solution to a problem with too quick a roll period? Increase it by adding weight away from the roll axis. This is usually most easily done by adding weight up high which can have the undesirable effect of decreasing the stability range so it is certainly a matter for a qualified marine architect to consider. I also agree with Mike that stabilizers are no substitute for stability, but even in a properly designed, very seaworthy, round-bilged displacement hull roll is usually a problem, but from a comfort, not a safety, consideration. In my opinion any owner-operated motor yacht going offshore must be stabilized for comfort, unless in the hands of a solo masochist. Captain Hal